Sweet & Spicy Mixed Nuts
Some people who know me for not liking nuts will probably be surprised to find me writing so enthusiastically about these mixed nuts, but the truth is, even though I’m not a nut-lover, these are my new favorite snack. They are at once salty, sweet, earthy and spicy, and there is just the right amount of coating on them- enough to create an intense flavor, but not so much that you feel like calling your dentist after munching through a handful. Now before devising my own recipe, I researched a bit, as I usually do, to find approximate proportions of ingredients to use for the size batch I wanted to make. What surprised me in my search was the predominant use of egg whites in this type of recipe. I guess I thought making mixed nuts with a glaze would just involve sugar, maybe butter, and some corn syrup, as if I was making a less-liquidy version of brittle. What I realized was that egg whites, along with sugar, were the key ingredient to getting that airy, less dense crunch to stick to the exterior of the nuts. I know I’ve written before about the different textural properties that eggs give to a variety of dishes, such as custard, angel food cake, and mayonnaise, but this was a totally new application to me.
So what does a curious cook do in this situation? She looks up why! Now the place to look was not on food websites or cookbooks (well, unless you consider Harold McGee’s books “cookbooks”..), but instead on science websites, or even food manufacturing websites. Why? Because the same properties of the egg whites that give these nuts their sheen, their resilient coating, and their ability to block moisture (therefore preventing them from spoilage longer) are the same properties that food scientists and manufacturers capitalize on to make the gelatin capsules that encase your daily vitamin e pill, the sausage casings that prevent their spoilage, and “candy shells” around loose pieces of gum. Edible protein films such as these protect fresh foods from flavor and nutrient losses, protect dried fruits from moisture loss, and even those that thinly coat apples help to lessen a producer or shipper’s dependency on nonrenewable food packaging materials by offering added protection to the produce. This is due to the protein film’s ability not only to provide a hydrophobic coating, thereby preventing changes in the food’s moisture content and subsequently reducing spoilage, but also its ability to evenly and thoroughly adhere to the given product. Do you see where I’m going with this now?
The use of egg whites in this recipe not only guarantees a crisp crunch and a shiny reflection (thanks in no small part to it’s partner in crime, sugar), but it ensures the sweet and spicy coating covers every nut, fills every crevice, and does so consistently and evenly. Additionally, I was thankful for the egg whites’ adhering abilities as I broke apart pieces of the mixed nuts that had stuck together in brittle fashion and didn’t lose any coating as I separated the clusters.
So make these mixed nuts for yourself, your friends, or for your next party and revel in their gleaming, hard-shelled goodness. They won’t get spice dust everywhere as some mixed nuts do, thanks to the candy-like coating, but I will warn you, they are addictive. Thankfully, nuts are good for you, so dig in
Note: one other thing I love (what am I up to, number 10, on the “let me count the ways I love these nuts” list??) is the fact that you can blitz them in the food processor and they make a delicious topping for ice cream, pudding, and trifles. Or, try mixing the blitzed bits into brownies, cookies, or pie crusts for added texture and flavor. Heck, I’m thinking of just mixing them in straight chocolate and making a dark mixed nut bark out of them….mmm…stay posted!
Sweet and Spicy Mixed Nuts
Makes 5 cups- you determine how many servings that is….
2 egg whites
1 tsp water
4 1/2 cups roasted mixed nuts, unsalted (or a single nut, your choice;- you can also buy salted roasted nuts, but then you should omit the salt from the recipe)
1 1/8 cup sugar
1 tbsp cinnamon
1 tsp ginger
1 tsp salt
3/4 tsp nutmeg
3/4 tsp allspice
1/2 to 3/4 tsp cayenne pepper (or to taste)
Method
1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Line a large baking sheet (or two small ones) with a silpat (if you don’t own a silpat, first, let me recommend buying one for $10 online, and second, let me suggest using a very well greased sheet of parchment paper, instead). Whisk egg whites and water in a large bowl until frothy, about 1 minute, then add the nuts, and stir to coat evenly.
2. Mix together all the other ingredients, and pour the mixture into the bowl with the coated nuts. Mix well to coat and dump the nuts on the lined baking sheet. Place in the oven and bake for 35-45 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes, until the nuts look a little dry and there is noticeably less moisture on the baking sheet. Take the nuts out of the oven, cool on the baking sheet, and once completely cool, peel them off the tray and break up any bunches that have formed. Store in an airtight container, or in sealed plastic bags, up to 1 month. Enjoy!
-M














