Cook Like Mad

A Celebration of Food

 

Archive for May, 2008

Daring Bakers May Challenge: Rose and Pistachio ‘Opera Cake’

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Bear with me, please. I know this does not look like Opera Cake, and in my opinion, it is not. Essential ingredients in Opera Cake are coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache, both of which are absent here. If it had been my choice, I would have made the original version, with the flavors that made Opera Cake famous. Alas, the Daring Bakers pleaded that we use only “light-colored” ingredients and flavorings, preferably in the yellow realm, like lemon, vanilla, and chamomile, so the original flavors got a swift kick in the butt.

What we’re left with is a layer cake by most people’s definitions, albeit a fancy one. Perhaps to be funny I should have made a beer flavored cake. That’s pretty yellow, no? Mmm…Sam Adams Summer Ale “Opera” Cake… Enough of it and you’ll be singing Gilbert and Sullivan tunes (”I’ve information vegetable, animal, and mineral…“).

Just kidding.

Anyway, in trying to make the best of what I consider a “situation” (I really like the combination of coffee and chocolate if you were wondering), I decided upon the summer-y flavor combination of Rose and Pistachio. It wouldn’t be yellow but it sure would be tasty. The only problem is, I really can’t force myself to call this ‘Opera Cake.’ How about The Most Delightfully Sweet and Texturally Divine Summertime Layer Cake? Let’s call it Divine Summertime Cake for short. Eat it and weep, my friends.

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A Taste of Light: Opéra Cake (a.k.a Divine Summertime Cake)

This recipe is based on Opéra Cake recipes in Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets and Tish Boyle and Timothy Moriarty’s Chocolate Passion.

Yield: 10-12 servings.

For the joconde

(Note: The joconde can be made up to 1 day in advance and kept wrapped at room temperate)

What you’ll need:

•2 12½ x 15½-inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans (Note: If you do not have jelly-roll pans this size, do not fear! You can use different-sized jelly-roll pans like 10 x 15-inches.)
•a few tablespoons of melted butter (in addition to what’s called for in the ingredients’ list) and a brush (to grease the pans)
•parchment paper
•a whisk and a paddle attachment for a stand mixer or for a handheld mixer
•two mixing bowls (you can make do with one but it’s preferable to have two)

Ingredients:

6 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tbsp. (30 grams) granulated sugar
2 cups (225 grams) ground blanched almonds (I used ground pistachios- which you’ll have to grind on your own by pulsing them in a food processor)
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
6 large eggs
½ cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. (1½ ounces; 45 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1.Divide the oven into thirds by positioning a rack in the upper third of the oven and the lower third of the oven.

2.Preheat the oven to 425◦F. (220◦C).

3.Line two 12½ x 15½- inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter.

4.In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the meringue into another bowl and set aside.

5.If you only have one bowl, wash it after removing the egg whites or if you have a second bowl, use that one. Attach the paddle attachment to the stand mixer (or using a handheld mixer again) and beat the almonds, icing sugar and eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.

6.Add the flour and beat on low speed until the flour is just combined (be very careful not to overmix here!!!).

7.Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture and then fold in the melted butter. Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.

8.Bake the cake layers until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. This could take anywhere from 5 to 9 minutes depending on your oven. Place one jelly-roll pan in the middle of the oven and the second jelly-roll pan in the bottom third of the oven.

9.Put the pans on a heatproof counter and run a sharp knife along the edges of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the pans over, and unmold.

10.Carefully peel away the parchment, then turn the parchment over and use it to cover the cakes. Let the cakes cool to room temperature.

For the syrup

(Note: The syrup can be made up to 1 week in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan

Ingredients:

½ cup (125 grams) water
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
1 to 2 tbsp. of the flavouring of your choice (i.e., vanilla extract, almond extract, cognac, limoncello, coconut cream, honey etc.- I used rose extract, which you can find at specialty stores and many middle eastern grocers)

1.Stir all the syrup ingredients together in the saucepan and bring to a boil.

2.Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

For the buttercream

(Note: The buttercream can be made up to 1 month in advance and packed in an airtight container. If made way in advance, you can freeze the buttercream. Alternatively you can refrigerate it for up to 4 days after making it. To use the buttercream simply bring it to room temperature and then beat it briefly to restore its consistency.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan
•a candy or instant-read thermometer
•a stand mixer or handheld mixer
•a bowl and a whisk attachment
•rubber spatula

Ingredients:

1 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 grams) water
seeds of one vanilla bean (split a vanilla bean down the middle and scrape out the seeds) or 1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract (Note: If you are flavouring your buttercream and do not want to use the vanilla, you do not have to. Vanilla will often enhance other flavours but if you want an intense, one-flavoured buttercream, then by all means leave it out!)
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1¾ sticks (7 ounces; 200 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
flavouring of your choice (a tablespoon of an extract, I used rose again)

1.Combine the sugar, water and vanilla bean seeds or extract in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves.

2.Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 225◦F (107◦C) [*Note: Original recipe indicates a temperature of 255◦F (124◦C), however, when testing the recipe I found that this was too high so we heated to 225◦F and it worked fine] on a candy or instant-read thermometer. Once it reaches that temperature, remove the syrup from the heat.

3.While the syrup is heating, begin whisking the egg and egg yolk at high speed in the bowl of your mixer using the whisk attachment. Whisk them until they are pale and foamy.

4.When the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and you remove it from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low speed and begin slowly (very slowly) pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl being very careful not to splatter the syrup into the path of the whisk attachment. Some of the syrup will spin onto the sides of the bowl but don’t worry about this and don’t try to stir it into the mixture as it will harden!

5.Raise the speed to medium-high and continue beating until the eggs are thick and satiny and the mixture is cool to the touch (about 5 minutes or so).

6.While the egg mixture is beating, place the softened butter in a bowl and mash it with a spatula until you have a soft creamy mass.

7.With the mixer on medium speed, begin adding in two-tablespoon chunks. When all the butter has been incorporated, raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thick and shiny.

8.At this point add in your flavouring and beat for an additional minute or so.

9.Refrigerate the buttercream, stirring it often, until it’s set enough (firm enough) to spread when topped with a layer of cake (about 20 minutes).

For the white chocolate ganache/mousse (this step is optional – please see Assembling the Opéra Cake below)

(Note: The mousse can be made ahead and refrigerated until you’re ready to use it.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan
•a mixer or handheld mixer

Ingredients:

7 ounces white chocolate
1 cup plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream (35% cream)
1 tbsp. liquer of your choice, optional (Bailey’s, Amaretto, etc.)

1.Melt the white chocolate and the 3 tbsp. of heavy cream in a small saucepan.
2.Stir to ensure that it’s smooth and that the chocolate is melted. Add the tablespoon of liqueur to the chocolate and stir. Set aside to cool completely.
3.In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks form.
4.Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate to form a mousse.
5.If it’s too thin, refrigerate it for a bit until it’s spreadable.
6.If you’re not going to use it right away, refrigerate until you’re ready to use.

For the glaze
(Note: It’s best to make the glaze right when you’re ready to finish the cake.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan or double boiler

Ingredients:

14 ounces white chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ cup heavy cream (35% cream)

1.Melt the white chocolate with the heavy cream. Whisk the mixture gently until smooth.
2.Let cool for 10 minutes and then pour over the chilled cake. Using a long metal cake spatula, smooth out into an even layer.
3.Place the cake into the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set.

Assembling the Opéra Cake

(Note: The finished cake should be served slightly chilled. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 day).

Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper.

Working with one sheet of cake at a time, cut and trim each sheet so that you have two pieces (from each cake so you’ll have four pieces in total): one 10-inch (25-cm) square and one 10 x 5-inch (25 x 12½-cm) rectangle.

Step A (if using buttercream only and not making the ganache/mousse):

Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup.

Spread about one-third of the buttercream over this layer.

Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.

Spread another third of the buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde. Spread the remaining buttercream on top of the final layer of joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).

Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.

Serve the cake slightly chilled. This recipe will yield approximately 20 servings.

Step B (if making the ganache/mousse):

Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup.

Spread about three-quarters of the buttercream over this layer.

Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.

Spread the remaining buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).

Prepare the ganache/mousse (if you haven’t already) and then spread it on the top of the last layer of the joconde. Refrigerate for at least two to three hours to give the ganache/mousse the opportunity to firm up.

Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.

Serve the cake slightly chilled.

Enjoy!

-M : )

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April Daring Bakers:Maple Toffee Crunch Cheesecake Pops

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So I am ungodly late for the April Daring Baker’s Challenge (seeing as how it’s May already…), but I figured since I did actually make them, I’d still post, even if it’s very tardy. Not much to say about this recipe. I used Maple Syrup instead of sugar, dark chocolate for coating, and toffee shards to give exterior crunch. Absolutely delicious and many thanks to my fellow Daring Bakers Elle and Deborah for coming up with this great challenge!

Note: feel free to be creative with the recipe below, but be warned, if you use maple syrup as I did, the cheesecake will be slightly more dense than if you use white granulated sugar. Enjoy! : )

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Innards!

Cheesecake Pops

Makes 30 – 40 Pops

5 8-oz. packages cream cheese at room temperature

2 cups sugar

¼ cup all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon salt

5 large eggs

2 egg yolks

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

¼ cup heavy cream

Boiling water as needed

Thirty to forty 8-inch lollipop sticks

1 pound chocolate, finely chopped – you can use all one kind or half and half of dark, milk, or white (Alternately, you can use 1 pound of flavored coatings, also known as summer coating, confectionary coating or wafer chocolate – candy supply stores carry colors, as well as the three kinds of chocolate.)

2 tablespoons vegetable shortening

(Note: White chocolate is harder to use this way, but not impossible)

Assorted decorations such as chopped nuts, colored jimmies, crushed peppermints, mini chocolate chips, sanding sugars, dragees) - Optional

Method

1.Position oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees F. Set some water to boil.

2.In a large bowl, beat together the cream cheese, sugar, flour, and salt until smooth. If using a mixer, mix on low speed. Add the whole eggs and the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well (but still at low speed) after each addition. Beat in the vanilla and cream.

3.Grease a 10-inch cake pan (not a springform pan), and pour the batter into the cake pan. Place the pan in a larger roasting pan. Fill the roasting pan with the boiling water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the cake pan. Bake until the cheesecake is firm and slightly golden on top, 35 to 45 minutes.

4.Remove the cheesecake from the water bath and cool to room temperature. Cover the cheesecake with plastic wrap and refrigerate until very cold, at least 3 hours or up to overnight.

5.When the cheesecake is cold and very firm, scoop the cheesecake into 2-ounce balls and place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Carefully insert a lollipop stick into each cheesecake ball. Freeze the cheesecake pops, uncovered, until very hard, at least 1 – 2 hours.

6.When the cheesecake pops are frozen and ready for dipping, prepare the chocolate. In the top of a double boiler, set over simmering water, or in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water, heat half the chocolate and half the shortening, stirring often, until chocolate is melted and chocolate and shortening are combined. Stir until completely smooth. Do not heat the chocolate too much or your chocolate will lose it’s shine after it has dried. Save the rest of the chocolate and shortening for later dipping, or use another type of chocolate for variety. Alternately, you can microwave the same amount of chocolate coating pieces on high at 30 second intervals, stirring until smooth.

7.Quickly dip a frozen cheesecake pop in the melted chocolate, swirling quickly to coat it completely. Shake off any excess into the melted chocolate. If you like, you can now roll the pops quickly in optional decorations. You can also drizzle them with a contrasting color of melted chocolate (dark chocolate drizzled over milk chocolate or white chocolate over dark chocolate, etc.) Place the pop on a clean parchment paper-lined baking sheet to set. Repeat with remaining pops, melting more chocolate and shortening (or confectionary chocolate pieces) as needed.

8.Refrigerate the pops for up to 24 hours, until ready to serve.

Enjoy!

-M : )

Restaurant Eve

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Image from the Restaurant Eve website

 

A short while ago, D and I went with a friend to Restaurant Eve for the friend’s birthday. Its a place we’ve been meaning to go to for some time, but as with other Alexandria, VA restaurants, it sometimes just feels too far away. Also as with other Alexandria restaurants, it’s the kind of place where you think you’ll be able to stroll in and get a table (at least in the bistro room), but in fact you’ll need to make a reservation 2 weeks in advance.

And they’ll remind you to be on time for your reservation, if you’re late. Normally, this is nothing unusual, as restaurants depend on diners honoring their reservations, plus or minus fifteen minutes. However, it’s more than unpleasant to be reminded not once, but twice, that your table “is booked for another party at 8:45.” Both when I called from the road, mentioning traffic due to construction, and when we sat down to our table, the hostess let us know this. In fact, she made a point of re-iterating it, stating, “Let me again say that this table is reserved for another party at 8:45. Now we won’t rush you, but expect you to be aware of this schedule.” Excuse me?? I couldn’t help but near-glare at this woman. Not to sound hokey, but we’re paying good money here! Cars run into traffic, things happen. Step down from your pedestal, and take that stick out of your…okay, I’m finished. Well, no, I’m not. One more thing about ‘Customer Service’- the Sommelier looks like a 22 year old frat boy. And us diners are onto you.

Now onto the food, which was scrumptious. The prices, which were often not.

To start, D had lobster and lemon ravioli, our friend had the housemade Charcuterie assortment, and I had the asparagus and crab salad. All utterly delicious, but the hefty price tags ($15-$20, each) made it harder to smile while swallowing. Sure the charcuterie platter was justified, but $20 for 3 small ravioli with god knows how little lobster and $15 for a pile of asparagus topped with 5 small chunks of lump crabmeat seems like a lot, especially when I can get my favorite crab soup at Rays the Steaks, teeming with crabmeat, for $3.75. The bread however, is a free, flavorful delight, and distracts from the prices with its assertive crust and well-proofed interior.

On to the entrees. D had duck breast, our friend had veal sweetbreads, and I had potato-crusted halibut. The halibut’s potato crust was only on the top side of the fish, keeping it crispy, which everyone thought was very smart. The dish felt harmonious, well executed, and light enough to feel healthy, but portioned well enough to be filling. An altogether yummy dish- not dream-worthy, but nice.

The sweetbreads are, however, in a class of their own. First of all, most restaurants shy away from an entree-size portion of these babies, but in fact, this is the perfect way to serve them. So may times you get sweetbreads and they’re overcooked because the chef diced them up into little nuggets for tapas or appetizers. I say, if you’re ordering sweetbreads, go big or go home. Served with morels and perfectly cooked (moist but not iffy- you know), the delicate sweetbreads were the highlight of the evening.

D’s duck was delicious, as were the desserts, namely a light coconut tart that had the best crust I’ve ever had in my life. Chef Armstrong- if you’re out there, I beg you to put this recipe on Eve’s website. The peanut butter and chocolate terrine was also commendably inventive, rich, and satisfying (not so fast- rich does not always equal satisfying, and all the best pastry chefs know and respect this).

One last thing- if it’s your birthday, let the staff know. They’ll toss you a free scone mix and a couple of fancy pats of pure Irish butter as you sign the check. The mix looks like it will produce 1 scone, but once out of the package, the volume of its contents is greater than you’d expect.

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Bake them for 15 minutes at 375 and you’ve got yourself a nice slightly sweet treat (see above picture). I must say though, I’d rather have the typical free birthday dessert that most restaurants of this caliber bestow upon their celebrant, rather than a scone mix. Who wants to bake themselves a treat on their birthday? Call me old-fashioned, but I’m a graduate of the home economics school where we were taught that on your birthday, someone else bakes. Regardless, it was a very thoughtful (albeit unexciting) end to a very thoughtful meal.

Atmosphere: B+

Service: B-

Food: A

*Overall Experience: A-

*The Overall Experience is not an average of the first three components of the rating system.

-M

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